You do not need to see a live termite to know they have been at work. A hollow thud when you knock on a baseboard, paint that ripples like orange peel, sagging floors that were fine a year ago. Termites are quiet and efficient, and they are happy to eat in the dark for months before anyone notices. By the time you call for help, the problem is rarely just cosmetic. Good termite repair services pair carpentry with building science, and the right specialist will save you money and headaches over the long run.
I have managed and inspected dozens of repairs ranging from small patches to full sill plate replacements across entire elevations. The common thread is simple: not all damage is obvious, and not all contractors are set up to handle it. Here is how to understand the work, what to expect, and how to find local termite damage repair you can trust.
What termites actually do to your house
Subterranean termites, the most common in much of the U.S., live in soil and move into houses through pencil‑thin mud tubes. They prefer moist wood and will follow plumbing leaks or foundation cracks to reach framing. Drywood termites, more common in coastal and warm regions, live entirely inside wood and do not need soil contact. The species matters because it changes both treatment and repair sequencing.
Termites eat springwood faster than dense summerwood, so they leave a ribbed or corrugated pattern inside studs, joists, and beams. From the outside, wood can look intact. Under paint, you might see blistering or slight warping. On floors, the first sign is often a subtle bounce in one room. I have crawled under homes where a 2x10 floor joist looked fine until a screwdriver slipped in with almost no resistance. That is why visual inspection alone is not enough.
Hidden damage tends to concentrate in a few areas:
- Sill plates and rim joists where framing meets foundation. Floor joists around bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms where moisture is common. Bottom plates in walls adjacent to patios or planters. Door and window headers that wick moisture from bad flashing. Attic truss heels or rafters where roof leaks went unnoticed.
When these areas fail, you move from nuisance to hazard. Doors stick because the frame racked. Tile cracks because subfloor lost stiffness. In two cases, I have seen stair treads loosen because the stringer was chewed through at the lower bearing point.
Treatment first, repair second, with one smart exception
You will hear every qualified termite damage contractor repeat this: eliminate the termites before you rebuild. For subterranean termites, that usually means a soil treatment around the foundation or a baiting system. For drywood termites, it may mean localized injections or whole‑house fumigation, depending on the spread. Your pest control operator will advise the method, but make sure they coordinate with your repair contractor.
There is one exception. If a beam or joist has lost so much capacity that it is unsafe, you shore the structure immediately. Temporary posts and beams can be installed in a few hours to carry the load while treatment happens. I have braced a kitchen ceiling the day we found the issue, then scheduled soil treatment within 48 hours. Once the termites are handled, permanent termite wood repair can proceed.
For most homes, allow 3 to 10 days after chemical treatment before opening walls or floors, unless you are only removing fully destroyed material that cannot harbor live insects. Your pest pro and contractor should agree on timing to avoid trapping active colonies behind new finishes.
Cosmetic versus structural: what needs a specialist
Plenty of jobs fall under simple carpentry: termite drywall repair after termite treatment, baseboard replacement, small trim patches. A handyman can handle those if the framing behind is solid and the termite company confirms there is no active infestation.
Structural termite repair is another category. If the damage touches framing that carries load — sill plates, beams, headers, joists, studs at shear walls — you want a contractor who routinely performs termite structural repair and is comfortable with permits and inspections. On older homes, what looks like a small patch can expand once plaster or subfloor is opened, so the crew needs to work cleanly in occupied spaces and adapt in the field.
Typical scopes you may hear:
- Termite sill plate repair where plates are segmented and replaced in sections while the wall is temporarily jacked. Termite floor joist repair using sistering, scabbing, or full replacement with engineered lumber. Termite beam repair with LVLs, steel flitch plates, or complete beam swaps with staged shoring. Termite subfloor repair where damaged decking is cut back to joist centers and replaced with tongue‑and‑groove panels glued and screwed. Termite wall repair involving stud replacements, new bottom plates, and reattachment of sheathing for shear.
Each method has trade‑offs. Sistering is fast and keeps finishes in place when done from below, but it requires sound bearing. Beam swaps fix the root problem but may mean removing finishes above, which adds time and cost.
How professionals assess termite damage
A good assessment goes beyond the free 15‑minute look. Expect a contractor to probe suspect lumber with an awl, take moisture readings, and trace the path of damage, not just the spot you can see. In crawlspaces, I carry a headlamp, a long probe, and a compact jack to test movement under partial load. In finished areas, we sometimes use a borescope through a small hole to see inside a wall without tearing it open. If the house shows signs of settlement or racking, I bring in a structural engineer to write a repair detail. Engineers are especially helpful when a shear wall is involved or when a beam supports multiple floors.
An anecdote that repeats: a homeowner calls about wavy baseboards along one wall. We find subterranean tubes behind the baseboard, soft plates, and two studs with 70 percent section loss. The path continues into a corner where a sliding door sits. That door header had a minor leak three years prior, never fully sealed, and the damp end grain was an easy target. Scope creeps outward and upward fast if you do not chase the whole path.
Where to start your search for termite repair near you
If you are typing termite damage repair near me into a browser, you will get a mix of pest control companies, general contractors, and restoration firms. Not all of them self‑perform framing repairs. You are looking for a local termite damage repair specialist with three traits: structural carpentry experience, knowledge of termite behavior, and clean coordination with pest treatment.
Useful search phrases include local termite damage repair, termite damage contractor near me, structural termite repair near me, and wood repair contractor termite damage near me. In many regions, restoration companies that handle water and fire damage also excel at termite damage restoration because they are used to controlled demolition and rebuild in occupied homes. Your state may require a general contractor license for structural work, so check licensing portals. Ask your termite treatment provider for two or three repair names they trust, then cross‑reference with neighbors or local builders’ groups.
Here is a quick vetting checklist you can run through on your first call:
- Can you describe two recent termite structural repair projects with photos or references? Do you self‑perform framing, or do you sub it out? If subbed, who does it and how is it supervised? How do you coordinate with pest control to avoid rebuilding over an active infestation? What is your plan for temporary shoring, dust control, and occupant safety? Will you pull permits if the scope touches structural elements or shear walls?
If a contractor cannot answer these cleanly, keep looking. The best will also ask you questions: age of the house, foundation type, plumbing leaks, prior termite history, and any recent changes that could have introduced moisture.
What a clear proposal looks like
The proposals that age well are specific without being rigid. They define a base scope and allow for unknowns behind finishes with unit pricing or allowances. Helpful details to look for:
- Description of termite wall repair or termite framing repair by location. For example, replace bottom plates and first 16 inches of studs in the east living room wall, 12 linear feet, reinstall shear nailing per plan. Method for termite sill plate repair, including how sections will be jacked, where new anchor bolts or straps go, and whether pressure‑treated lumber will be used. Many jurisdictions require pressure‑treated sill plates on concrete, and sill sealer foam or capillary break is a smart upgrade. Termite floor joist repair plan with fastener schedules, length of sisters, bearing details, and any need for hangers or post bases. I like to see sistering extend at least 3 to 4 feet past damage or to the next bearing. Termite subfloor repair calling out the panel type, thickness, exposure rating, and fastening pattern. Glue and screw is more rigid than nails alone, and I specify it under tile or hardwood. Termite beam repair with material type, dimensions, bearing, and shoring plan. If load paths change, an engineer’s note should be attached. Finishes: termite drywall repair after termite treatment, paint scope, baseboard or casing replacement. Many disputes come from this area, not the framing.
Expect costs to vary widely. For context, patching a section of bottom plate and two studs behind one wall might run 800 to 2,500 dollars depending on access and finishes. Sistering three joists and replacing 80 square feet of subfloor in a crawlspace might land between 3,000 and 7,500 dollars. Full sill plate replacement around a corner with new anchor bolts and shear nailing could be 6,000 to 15,000 dollars. Beam repairs range even more, from a few thousand for a single LVL installed from below, to tens of thousands if floors above must be lifted and finishes redone. These are ballparks, not quotes. Soil conditions, house age, and region impact labor rates.
How specific repairs are performed
Termite sill plate repair often starts with shoring. We set temporary posts and a beam just inside the wall line, jack slightly to relieve weight, then remove short sections of the damaged plate. New pressure‑treated plates are cut to fit tight, drilled for epoxy‑set anchors or new expansion bolts as required, and strapped or clipped to studs. A capillary break, such as sill sealer or flashing tape, helps prevent future moisture wicking from concrete.
Termite floor joist repair depends on how much cross‑section remains. If the middle of a joist is chewed but the ends are sound, sistering with a full‑length dimensional joist or LVL makes sense. We glue and bolt or screw both sides if space allows, or just one side when access is tight. Where ends are destroyed, a new joist is hung off a ledger or beam with proper hangers and load paths checked to the foundation. Any plumbing notched through the bad area gets rerouted to meet code.
Termite beam repair is the area where homeowners are most surprised by logistics. A beam swap needs careful sequencing: build a stout temporary support on each side, transfer the load, remove the bad beam in sections if needed, slide in the new LVL or built‑up beam, set new posts with proper bases and caps, then let the structure down slowly. Never rush the unwind, especially in older plastered homes. In a 1928 bungalow I worked on, we lowered a new living room beam one turn of the jack per minute over an hour to avoid cracking the coved plaster.
Termite subfloor repair is cleaner than most people fear when done from below. We cut back to joist centers, add blocking where needed, and replace with panels of the same thickness. Glue matters because it quiets squeaks and stiffens the diaphragm. Under tile, we often add a backer board or uncoupling membrane as extra insurance.
For termite wall repair, removing the bottom 16 to 24 inches of drywall or plaster is standard if plates and lower studs are affected. Studs with minor damage can be scabbed, but if more than about a third of the cross‑section is gone in a load‑bearing wall, I replace the stud or sister it full height. Where walls provide lateral resistance, shear nailing patterns must be accurate, so we often mark and pre‑drill to keep spacing correct.
Termite attic wood repair shows up around rafters, collar ties, and ridge boards after roof leaks. Drywood termites love these dry, warm spaces. Repairs range from sistering rafters to installing new purlins and struts that offload the damaged members. In truss roofs, do not modify chords or webs without an engineer, as it changes how forces move.
Drywall and finishes come last. Termite drywall repair after termite treatment includes matching textures and paint sheens, a frequent sore spot when patches flash under certain light. A good finisher will blend across whole walls or to a corner rather than stopping mid‑span.
Moisture control and prevention baked into the repair
Termites need moisture. If your contractor ignores water management, you will be repeating this process. I always look for sources: grade sloping toward the house, downspouts without extensions, crawlspace humidity, leaky hose bibs, air conditioner condensate lines dumping near the foundation. When we do termite structural repair, we build in safeguards:
- A continuous vapor barrier on the soil in crawlspaces, seams taped and edges sealed. Gutter and downspout systems that move water 5 to 10 feet from the foundation. Borate treatment for exposed new framing in vulnerable areas, applied per label. Termite shields or physical barriers at piers in some regions, which force subterraneans to build exposed tubes we can spot. Proper clearance between soil and siding or stucco. I aim for 6 to 8 inches at minimum.
The smallest changes matter. On one project, we eliminated repeat attacks by adding two downspout extensions and a 60‑dollar dehumidistat‑controlled vent fan under the addition. The follow‑up inspections over three years stayed clean.
Permits, inspections, and engineering
If the work touches structure, plan on a permit. Municipalities differ, but replacing sill plates, beams, or more than a couple of studs in a load‑bearing wall usually triggers review. Your contractor should handle drawings and coordinate a structural engineer when needed. Inspectors appreciate clear access, drawings on site, and photos of conditions before or during demolition. That makes approvals smoother and protects you if you ever sell the home.
Do not skip the paper. A tidy file with treatment reports, repair photos, permits, and any engineer letters adds real value to a sale and reassures buyers that termite damage restoration was handled properly.
Living through the repair
Termite repairs create dust, noise, and odd smells if borates or sealants are applied. Good crews protect your home like a medical suite. We hang plastic with zippers, run HEPA air scrubbers, and schedule the noisiest work during daytime windows that fit your routine. Pets need a safe room. If we are Additional hints opening bathrooms or kitchens, plan alternate spaces for a few days.
Most projects take 2 to 10 working days depending on scope. A simple termite wall repair behind a base cabinet might be a two‑day job including finishes. A sill plate replacement along one side of a house can stretch to a week, especially if the foundation needs new anchors. Beam work tucked in a crawlspace or basement is invasive for a few days then quiet while finishes catch up.
Here is a short homeowner prep list that makes day one go smoothly:
- Clear 3 to 4 feet of floor space along walls where work occurs, and empty affected cabinets or closets. Move or cover furniture and electronics near work zones, and take down fragile wall art. Make driveway space for a truck and a dumpster or debris trailer. Secure pets and plan for noise, including brief water or power shutoffs. Identify any alarms, smart home hubs, or hidden wires that might run through walls to be opened.
DIY or hire it out
I am pro‑DIY for non‑structural items. If you have terminated the infestation and the damage is confined to trim, drywall, or a small section of subfloor in a non‑load area, a handy homeowner can tackle it with patience and the right tools. The moment loads are involved, bring in pros. Improper jacking can crack finishes across the house or bind doors for months. Missing a shear panel nailing pattern can compromise how your home handles wind or seismic forces. Insurance companies also look for licensed work on structural claims, and you do not want an adjuster debating your fix after a later event.
Warranties and follow‑up
There are two warranties to ask about. Pest companies often provide a retreatment warranty for a period, commonly one to five years depending on the method and whether you keep a service plan. Repair contractors may offer a workmanship warranty, typically one year in many states, sometimes longer. Material warranties are separate. Clarify what is covered if termites reappear in the same area. Most contractors do not warrant against future infestations, but a few will adjust labor if termites return and you can show continuous pest coverage.
I ask clients to schedule a six‑month check, then an annual look for two years. We inspect for moisture, new tubes, and any movement in the repair areas. This habit has caught minor leaks early and kept small problems from returning.
The quiet value of a local specialist
A local termite damage repair specialist knows your soil, your building stock, and the patterns of failure in your neighborhood. In coastal towns, they know how drywood termites hide in eaves and how salt air accelerates fastener corrosion. In clay‑soil regions, they plan for seasonal movement when they level floors. They have relationships with the inspectors who see this work weekly. That local knowledge shortens the learning curve and keeps surprises smaller.
When you begin your search for termite repair near me, aim for someone who talks as comfortably about load paths and anchorage as they do about paint and texture matches. Ask for examples of termite sill plate repair, termite beam repair, and termite floor joist repair they have performed in houses like yours. Notice whether they push for treatment coordination, moisture fixes, and thoughtful sequencing. Those are the markers of a pro.
Repairing termite damage to a house is not just about replacing chewed wood. It is about restoring capacity, stiffening the structure, and closing the door on the conditions that allowed the problem in the first place. With the right team, the repair disappears into the bones of the home, and you will forget it ever happened, except for the peace of mind when your floors feel firm and your doors swing true again.